Planning to Visit the Island?

I thought I'd post a few tips based on our experiences out on the Cabot Trail and our Return drive through New Brunswick for anyone who might be interested in doing a similar drive sometime in the future. If you're anything like us, you'll like the same kinds of things we liked, and dislike some of the things we disliked.

#1) Pull out your map of Eastern Canada (Quebec and the Atlantic Provinces). Study these roads:
Highway #2 is a four lane easy driving, and definitely not very scenic drive. I'd recommend it for your drive home - when you're sick of touristy stuff, and just want to get home.
On the other hand - Highway 132 (in Quebec / Highway 11 and Highway 8 in New Brunswick) travels a little further East and adds at least an hour to your drive. I recommend it for your drive to Nova Scotia - when you'll still find Quebec cities interesting (the churches in each town are quite something to see) and the scenery between Mont Joli and Campbellton is really nice. Sometime, it might be nice to camp near AMQUI, or Routhierville. The rest of the drive through New Brunswick is short (2 hours) but is abundantly disappointing as it lacks scenery of the ocean. To see the ocean along Highway 11 and 8, you'll have to get off the highway and take street-roads through all the little towns, which will slow your drive down considerably. The bridges in Campbellton, and in Miramichi/Chatham are interesting to see.

#2) Getting to the Island. Getting there along Highway 104 (on Mainland Nova Scotia) is somewhat dull, but we enjoyed the cities of New Glasgow and especially Antigonish (a nice-looking university and a downtown that's small enough to walk). But these towns aren't anything terribly special, so don't get your hopes too far up. There is a Dairy Queen in Antigonish (visible from the highway), which is nice if your car lacks air conditioning like ours does.

#3) The Island Itself. We drove along highway 19 (the Western side of Cape Breton) up to Glenora Falls (the whiskey distillery and a Celtic Music Translator Museum on this highway). The Distillery was nice but overpriced unless you actually like taking shots of whiskey. Pay attention to the corner where Highway 19 meets Highway 219 - Steph and I missed that turn and added a bit of useless driving to our trip...

Cheticamp has a Tim Hortons and a Full Service National Camp Ground nearby.

The Skyline Trail - was disappointing. If you're thinking it's nice scenery the whole 10 kilometer hike - well, it's not. It's a long walk through a forest, and only 100 -200 meters of the 10 kilometers feature a wooden boardwalk. They SAY you can expect to see 2-3 moose along the trail - but we saw 0. And only the trail to the left is gravel. the trail that goes to the right is an old-fashioned trail complete with rocks and roots to step around or twist your ankle on. Oh, and definitely don't do the whole trail if you are feeling sick (like I was). The nicest part of the trail is on the left. So we recommend you just stick to the left trail which takes you out to the Headland jut-out, and then turn around and come back. Unless you're actuall hunting for Moose.
Sidenote - We DID see a Momma bear, and two cubs cross the road somewhere near the skyline trail.

Our first night, we stayed at MacIntosh Brook and really lucked out. It has flush toilets, but the water (from the taps) is not drinkable. What made it memorable was the fact that we shared the campground (it's small) with only two other families/groups - So we were able to have a lot of privacy, and yet, as we set up our sight, we enjoyed the violin and cello being played by a son and daughter of another family. (It was like having a private concert being played for you in the middle of the scenic highlands!)(it was nice). We also discovered that there is a 15 minute hike into the woods with a nice waterfall at the end of it. (which we also enjoyed).
MacIntosh Brook turned out to be much more enjoyable than the full service campground we stayed at later - simply for the fact that there were so few people to share it with.
Whale Watching is also really close by in Pleasant Bay.

The Second Night, we stayed at Broad Cove (a full-service National campground) which is close by Ingonish, Mary Ann Falls, and the #1 Rated Public Golf Course in Canada. The only thing I could say was that it was nice choosing a campsight near the ocean, AND be careful of the showers - they're really sensitive to any adjustments you make to the temperature. Steph really hated her shower. I learned from what she told me, and enjoyed a great shower - but only barely touched the controls when I needed to change any temperature. I laughed as I heard a boy screaming when he kept cranking the hot and then cranking the cold, going from Extremely Hot Water, to extremely Cold water.

There are some nice shops on the Ingonish side. We found a wood-workers shop, beside a glass-makers shop, beside a Chicks Cafe & Bakery somewhere between Ingonish and Tarbotvale.

And that's really all we can say or recommend.

Be careful of the "Ferry" to get to Englishtown. It costs something like $5.00, and only moves about 500 meters before it lets you off again. It's probably just as easy to go around the bay, and you can check out the Celtic College near MacLeods Point.

- Hope our advice is helpful!

Very Glad to Be Home!

We've finally made it home! It was a fun two weeks, and we really appreciated being able to stay at Martin and Emily's for so long!

We thought we'd better update everyone on what happened out yonder on the isle'o'cape Breton.

So we drove out and on to the island... That took a while.

We moseyed on up to the Glenora Distillery - maker of Canadian single malt whiskey - paid a little bit of money. They walked us down a hallway, gave us a shot of whiskey, and said "Thanks for visiting!" Just like 'em to treat us like a bunch of scots...

As it turns out... Steph doesn't actually like Whiskey on its own. "It burns" she said.

Some interesting facts we learned about whiskey - You're actually supposed to smell it. The glenora brand sits in wooden barrels (which Jack Daniels or someone like that uses first), and sits in a barn for something like ten years... During that time, the wooden barrels absorb some of the scents of the neighbouring countryside, and so Glenora's whiskey is said to have a bit of an apple scent. So go ahead and smell your whiskey!

Another interesting thing... The whiskey 'mix' gets boiled twice. The alcoholic evaporation is collected, and then boiled again. After the first time it's boiled, it's approximately 30% alcohol. After the second time it's boiled, it's approximately 75-80% alcohol.

Then they add water before they put it in a bottle at approximately 40% alcohol.

The Cabot trail was nice scenery. Here's Steph on the 'Skyline' Trail which didn't really live up to its name... it was more like the "7 km of walking through a forest, and 100 meters of ocean view trail". Steph is sitting on the 100 meters of boardwalk on the trail where you can actually get a really nice view of the surrounding ocean and valleys. Steph is at the limit of how far we actually able to go out on the 'boardwalk' though - because there were high winds that day and the warning on the signs said "Don't go out on the boardwalk in high winds". Apparently you can get blown off the boardwalk. And possibly off the cliff... ( a couple that went out after us, didn't read the sign, and found out the hard way...)

This is me, on the trail. Carrying an unfortunately heavy back-pack full of raingear that we didn't need or use.

Below, is me in the forest of 350 year old trees. They're old, so they're protected. Hence, you can't journey into the center of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park...

Below, is Steph, at a picturesque stop called Black Cove.

And below, is Mary Ann Falls. On the Ingonish side of the park.

And this, is just some random guy fishing. But it looked like a good picture.

We didn't go whale watching because it was too windy, so our boat reservation was cancelled. Apparently they don't take you out onto the ocean in a Zodiac when it's windy. That day it was like 30 km/h winds. so that was disappointing.

And we Don't recommend doing the Cabot Trail just before heading home. Because it's just way to much driving.

Oh. And don't take the Eastern side of New Brunswick on the way home. It's boring. Unless you're going to stop in all the small towns.

Oh. and Steph doesn't like Quebec as much as she used to think she did, but we'll blame that on all of the driving.

Yar, I missed me sailing vessel again!

A couple days ago, we travelled out to Peggy's Cove, and then to Lunenburg. We took fewer pictures but still managed to get a few that I really like. Here are a few:

The 'postcard' view of Peggy's cove in use. I like all the colours in it that kinda stand out from all the brown and grey.

This one was hard to choose - I like it for the look on Maria's face - slightly turned to her dad, as if her dad had something important to say and she was really paying attention.

I like this one of all of us with the lighthouse behind us. The lighthouse was smaller than I expected... Anyways. I like the line of heads just sticking up from the rock between us and the lighthouse - it kinda reminds me of pigeons.

I just like this one for the look on Maria's face... Like, you gotta be kidding me... You're kidding me right Uncle David?

We took it easy for the last couple of days. Martin and I did a little more work on his investment. Tomorrow, Steph and I are heading for the Cabot Trail. We'll check out the Glenory Distillery (home of Canada's Only Single Malt Whiskey)(which can't be called Scotch because it's not made in Scotland...) and then we'll stay up near Pleasant Bay. Saturday we hope to do the whale watching out of Pleasant Bay (No Sailboat tours unfortunately - they aren't operating this summer - hence the title of this blog entry), and hike the Skyline Trail (but it's supposed to rain 10 cms all day Saturday!), and then Sunday we'll check out the fort at Louisbourg before we head back to Martin and Emily's again.

Hopefully I can raise a glass of Canadian Scotch Whiskey to NO RAIN on Saturday?!

Powder Rooms and School Rooms.....similarities?

First, a side note: IT'S A GIRL!!! We are sending our congratulations and love to Steve, Katrina, Naomi and Petra on the birth of Rachel Jean this morning at 3:30!! Welcome to the family Rachel!

Alrighty, now for our update: We have been very busy here in Nova Scotia. We're making sure we see lots of things and are checking out all the "touristy" spots and more! So we checked out the Citadel. It was an absolutely beautiful day (which are few and far between here...) and so we spent a few hours touring around the rooms and different exhibits.

Here is some of the gun powder stash:

Here are the rules that were posted in the school room at the Citadel.
Emily took this great picture of us. It has the MacDonald Bridge (one of the bridges between Dartmouth and Halifax) in the backround, but that might be kind of difficult to see on this size of picture.
And here the soldiers were shooting off fake cannons. Despite the fact that they were fake, they were very loud!

Next on the list was the Parade of Sail for the Tall Ships. The Tall Ship festival has been going on since Thursday and on Monday they were leaving for the next port. So they sailed around the Halifax Harbour and then out onto the ocean. So we got a few close-ups of the ships and then we drove down the coast to see them sailing out.

And then last night, we checked out the Halifax Public Gardens. They have beautiful flowers here! So there were lots of photo ops! Here are a FEW of the pictures we got!

YAR! Me Sailin' Ship Just Arrived! (or, Boats That Float, and/or, She Be Me Whiskey Lass)

Saturday, we visited downtown Halifax and toured the waterfront. Here's Steph in the Farmer's Market, which is also located beneath Alexander Keith's Halifax Brewery. We were going to do the tour of the brewery, but it costs $15! - they give you two drinks - but Steph doesn't even like beer (I'll tell you what she DOES like later...) - and really, how fast do you have to drink those two drinks on this tour? Two drinks in an hour and Steph'd be a little tipsy as we toured downtown...

The Tall Ships Festival is this weekend in Halifax, on the waterfront. So we got a few looks at the ships. This one is from Winkel, Holland.

This next one is the HMS Bounty (I've been on it before - I think in Brockville), It has appeared in such Moving Pictures like "Mutiny on the Bounty" (Marlon Brando) and also "Pirates of the Caribbean II and III. I'll have to watch the movies again, just to find the ship...

Yar, and this be me pride and joy. Built her meself with me own two hands, and she be the fastest ocean going vessel the far side of 1938.

Okay, I wish.

But this is the Bluenose II.

And, I guess this guy is always parked here. But we took a picture anyway.

So the waterfront was nice.

Also along the waterfront was a store we happened into called Rumrunner's. They sell three kinds of cake - Chocolate Rum Cake, Original Rum Cake, and a Whiskey Cake.

Guessed which one Steph liked the most? - the Whiskey Cake.

Which shouldn't be surprising because she loves Cherry Whiskey too.

So I guess that now I can call her 'My Little Whiskey Girl' (reference to a Toby Keith Song)...

Boats that don't float, and other strange tales on the Bay of Fundy

"This is the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it
Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the huntsman?
Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, --
Men whose lives glided on like rivers that water the woodlands,
Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven?"
- Evangeline, by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, Lines 7 -11

Thursday afternoon we headed up to see part of the Bay of Fundy! So here are some pictures, and a few short descriptions of what happened out there...

The poem I started with is from Evangeline, an epic poem about the Acadians - whose land we were going into -- Grand Pre, Wolfville, Blomidon and Cape Split.

To be fair to Martin and Emily, I'm posting pictures more or less, of just Steph and I. They can tell you about Maria's first camping experience...

This first picture is us at a lookout overlooking the Minas Basin, near Grand Pre. I, of course, am wearing the hat Steph said I could ONLY wear to work. But I think the hat looks good...? Oh, and the view was nice, too.

In Grand Pre, we visited a National Historic Park which was set up on near the church that now symbolizes the deportation of les Acadiens, by the British (1755 - 1763). Unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the dramatic presentation was closed for the day, and they still wanted $8 a person for admission. We opted for the tourist booth instead, where I picked up the book "Evangeline" which shows promise as a good read....
We also stopped at a Winery and toured their 'vineyards' on our own. Here's a pic' of Maria getting close to the grapes.

On our way up to the campground at Blomidon, we had a view of some boats that don't float. "Apparently", the tides here are quite severe...

We spent the night at Blomidon Provincial Park. The campground was pretty empty, and the wood they gave us was pretty wet. It was hard to get a good fire. But I think Maria didn't mind.

We had hamburgers/sloppy joe's for dinner.

And smoke for dessert.

Unfortunately, we were limited by a firepit that only allowed a view of the fire from one side -- also the side where all the smoke travelled to. We didn't plan this picture - we were breathing fine just before it, but as soon as the timer was set to go, our seats were consumed by smoke.

All night - it rained. So when I (foolishly) tried to defy nature and start wet wood on fire, well, breakfast was consumed by smoke as well...

This is the beach at Blomidon, at low tide. At high tide, we'd probably be under water. Or at least IN the water.

Finally, we visited Cape Split. Take a good look at the second picture below -- those are clams that, apparently grow in every groove in the rocks Steph and I are standing on in the first picture. Hence, we discovered that we were actually at Clam Cove - an appropriate name.

The water at high tide would reach about 3/4 of the height of this wharf that is quite obviously useless during low tide...

Pictures of us at Martinique Beach

East Coast Extravaganza

Alright, so to update you on our first few days on the East Coast:

~Sunday afternoon: We went for a walk in Bedford, which is a little bit northwest of Dartmouth. We went for a walk along the Bedford Basin. It was very nice weather although as you can tell from the pictures, it was quite windy.

~Monday: David and Martin went to check out the "new house" and spent most of the day drawing up deck plans and plans for the inside of the house. Emily and I went shopping. (Sorry, not many pictures really from this day).

~Tuesday: Martin was called into work :( so after Emily and I hiked all over Dartmouth to get a few groceries, David and I went to work at the "new house." We had to move a HUGE pile of rocks in an attempt to level out the area for a driveway, only to find out that it was actually some kind of septic bed.....so we'll have to tell Martin about that tomorrow....oops! And now we're babysitting Maria, which is incredibly easy (no thanks to Emily for feeding her prunes before she left, and I have a husband who won't change diapers....!!!).

So that's been our time so far. We're planning on going to an ocean beach tomorrow and checking out some touristy towns, so that'll be fun! And then we're hoping (if the weather cooperates) to go camping Thursday and Friday near the Bay of Fundy and doing some hiking around there. So lots to do and see!

Here are a few more random pictures: